Heir to the savoir-faire of handcrafted fashion made in Italy, and even more so Made in Rome, Luigi Borbone, architect but stylist, as he likes to be called, learned the art of making clothes from his grandmother, first a mannequin for the Sorelle Fontana and then an established seamstress in the years of the Dolce Vita and up to the 1990s. Luigi Borbone continues to create that synthesis of tradition and innovation necessary for a creative industry that builds a sense of beauty. In 2012, he founded the Maison Luigi Borbone with clear ideas: to propose his vision of a contemporary aesthetic characterized by excellence of execution and continuous research into craftsmanship.
Why haute couture and not prêt à porter?
I have always breathed the air of tailoring and the direct relationship between creator and customer. Seeing a dress I have in my mind being realized and transporting it in three dimensions on a body fascinates me. Every time I make a garment, I get excited. Haute couture allows me to realize my ideal of a woman: a romantic woman who loves the future and is attracted by challenges.
How do your collections come about?
Every time I feel like I am in a theatre: I see my garments walking and if I understand that there is a beginning and an end it means that the inspiration is right. In general, I am inspired by art in all its forms. Of course, living in Rome is easier. It is a city rich in layers: pagan art, Christianity, the Renaissance, rationalism, Fellini, Rossellini, Pasolini, Anna Magnani. After the first suggestions, talking with my collaborator and my seamstresses leads from simple vision to the execution of ideas.
What verb sums up your work?
Daring.
What is inside a Maison Luigi Borbone garment?
Tradition, research, femininity, and soul! Both mine and that of my collaborators.
What volumes do you prefer?
Rather than volumes, I would speak of a rigorous choice of fabrics that allow my geometric lines to come together: clean sinuous and flowing.
Why did you dedicate yourself only to your line and not seek a safe spot?
I met many people and received proposals, but I like my freedom and the flexible structure of my company.
Is it difficult to have your own brand in front of the big brands?
It is not easy, especially after all that has happened and is happening in the world. My garments cost a lot of money because the quality is not cheap, but I offer a service that is completely different from that of the brands established in the 80s; customers relate to me personally and I can transfer to them the whole vision of how I see them in their total look.
Luigi tell me: what does ‘made in Italy’ mean to you?
The word itself: created, made in Italy, by skilled hands that have learnt the tradition and know how to interpret it today in a contemporary way.
